We took the opportunity to visit Morocco on our way to the Canaries as neither of us had visited North Africa before. We spent just over two weeks there and found it very interesting although I don’t think either of us would rush to go back. This may not have been helped by the fact that we arrived during the month of Ramadan (the Muslim month of day-time fasting) and because of this it was very difficult to find cafes, restaurants open during the day. Often by the mid-afternoon, people you were dealing with (taxi drivers etc) were becoming short-tempered as they were thirsty and hungry. The marina is actually in Sale across the river from Rabat and has been improved recently as the King of Morocco leaves his boat or some of his boats there. Just down the pontoon were another English couple, Audrey and Roger, in a 34ft Rival, Sarah Giddings. They moved on to Madeira (well Porto Santo) when we left but hopefully we will meet up in the Canaries as they plan to come here too. I was taken round the old town or medina in Sale by one of the shower attendants when she finished for the day. It was full of very narrow streets of houses and it seemed most of them were selling something! Herbs & spices; bread bases like chapattis; shops full of reams of vibrantly coloured material which could be made up into the chaabi (I think) – rather like an over-garment that covered all with a hood to cover the head – that was being worn by everyone as it was Ramadan. There are very frequent trams that form the main mode of short distance travel around the two cities/towns and we spent one day in Rabat itself – going round the souks – streets of shops and stalls, covered against the sun. Shoes seemed to be the really large seller here! As I said, there was nowhere to get a drink or sit down and unfortunately it was VERY hot even in the shade so we did find it hard. (I left our thermometer out in the sun on the boat and it nearly went over the top registering about 46C {114F}) It is considered discourteous to eat and drink in public during Ramadan so we were sneaking little sips of water when we could! We walked round one part of the Kasbah (old fortifications) but again things were closed and although there was some wonderful doorways it was not quite the experience I had hoped. There is a very good train service that was pretty cheap – even first class which guaranteed a seat. So we took the train to Casablanca (about an hours trip) where we visited a huge modern mosque that overlooks the sea and does in fact have a glass floor over the water. According to the internet, we should have been able to take a tour in the afternoon but they were only in the mornings. We did get a chance to see a little from the basement as a guide took us in – for a tip that he argued over! Again nowhere was open, other than the European hotels and Rick’s Café that I realised afterwards is the café in the film – or meant to be! We stopped in a hotel just before we got the train back and partook of a chilled “Casablanca” beer. It was like nectar!!! A trip to Marrakech seemed in order - not on the Marrakech Express I’m afraid, it took 5 hour train journey so we booked a “Riad” for a couple of nights. Riads are like bed & breakfasts but in traditional dwellings where the rooms all open onto an open courtyard. Riad Hannah had 11 rooms with a small lounge, their kitchen and reception area but to see it from outside it looked tiny! Amazing what was behind the walls of the streets. It also had a terrace on the roof that we thought would have a lovely view but unfortunately it was surrounded by a high wall as presumably the house next door had one too! Marrakech was a largely different experience. Maybe because it is such a tourist area there was more open and much more life. Again we wandered round the souks which were great but we did find that it became very difficult to window shop as the owner of the store would try to drag you in and would not take no for an answer. However at least the cafés were open and we could get a mint tea! We certainly needed the break – it was about 40C (104F) in the shade!!!!! At the centre of Marrakech is a huge square – Jeema El Fna – which is really alive both during the day but especially at night. We had been through it during the day and returned in the evening by taxi. The taxi could not take us all the way and we did not realise why until we had walked hundred yards down the road and suddenly we in the midst of thousands of people. It was nearly the end of Ramadan and one of the final evenings is a very important time of prayer (we had seen a fenced off area with mats during the day but did not understand the significance of it). Obviously the evening prayers had just finished and it was total chaos!!! Eventually we got through and were able to wander round the square before going back to our raid. Ramadan finished on our last Friday and there was quite a different feel to Rabat after this. It had been fascinating to see hundreds of people parading along by the marina late at night when we first arrived and it was obvious that this had been the social time during Ramadan as there were far fewer at night and many more during the day when it finished!! |
We had known that alcohol was expensive in Morocco and thought that was a good reason to not drink much while we were there! What I had not realised was that in fact it’s illegal to sell alcohol during Ramadan unless it’s to non-Moroccans!
The shops in Rabat and Sale just did not sell it at all but it was more relaxed in Marrakech where you could buy it on production of your passport and then half crawled under a barrier!!!
And the Old The shops in Rabat and Sale just did not sell it at all but it was more relaxed in Marrakech where you could buy it on production of your passport and then half crawled under a barrier!!!
As I said we would not be in a hurry to rush back - you had to be on your guard against anyone offering you any type of help. When we arrived in Marrakech, we were followed out of our taxi and when we missed the turning to our riad, a chap immediately, unasked, gave us directions and showed us the way (a matter of 200 yards!). Very nice we thought but he was unhappy with our tip and became quite abusive when we would not give him more – he was asking for the equivalent of a days labour. It did become obvious that he was known to the staff of the hotel and to other guests who gave him a very short answer!
Having said that it was an amazing place.